One of my favorite things about travelling is the
opportunity to try new foods. Frankly, the diet of The Gambia has not been
something I've especially loved. It’s a lot of rice, three-meals-a-day-kind of
a lot of rice. The rice is served with some sort of sauce. The ingredients for
these sauces are usually onions, oil, okra, pepper, bitter tomatoes, fish, and/or
local peanut butter. There are 3 major types: benechin described in another blog
post here, and then domada and chu, described below. Many Wolof families, mine
included, also eat cheree, or pounded millet. When first acquainted, many
people think they are eating sand. I admit that it does look like wet sand, but
prepared correctly, it is actually quite nice. I prefer it to rice which is
lucky for me, because we eat this cheree almost every day for dinner.
But for one week in October, my palate got to
taste something that wasn't the same-old fish bones and onion sauce. During the
Muslim feast of Eid-ai-adha, or Tobaski, we slaughtered a ram and proceeded to
eat almost every part of it over the next 3-7 days. Here’s the menu for this year’s 3-day feast.
· Meat sauce and bread-Mutton, bones, onions, peppers, mustard powder, oil
Dinner
· Cherre (see above description) with organ and intestine sauce
Day 2:
Breakfast
Breakfast
·
Cherre with organ and intestine sauce again
Lunch
·
Meat Domada on rice-Domada is a sauce with local peanut butter as its base
Dinner
·
Cherre with organ and intestine sauce again, again
·
Appetizer-Ram head-Exactly what it sounds like.
It was, I think, boiled and still whole. We ate the cheeks, tongue, and
cartilage, and then broke open the skull to eat the brain.
Day 3:
Breakfast
·
Cherre with organ and intestine sauce one more time
Lunch
· Rice with meat chu- the sauce is cooked like an onion stew and poured on rice
· Rice with meat chu- the sauce is cooked like an onion stew and poured on rice
Dinner
·
Leftover Rice and Chu
*In the morning while cooking, my host mother handed me a
chunk of raw meat the size of my head and said my host father wanted me to have
it. I told her she could keep it and that we’d all eat it, but she insisted. Culturally, when you slaughter something, you
should give a share of the meat to respectable people in the village, members
of your extended family, and to needy families. My host father wanted to show
me honor and respect so I accepted the meat.
After the third day of celebrations, the meat continued to
appear in our sauces for another week. My family salted the meat heavily and
dried it in the sun to keep it from going rancid in the land of no electricity, however, by the sixth day it was starting to taste funky. I am happy to
report that my health was not seriously affected, and I enjoyed my Tobaski menu.
Believe it or not, the cheree with organ and intestine sauce is incredible! Easily one of my favorite things I’ve eaten in The Gambia. Likewise, the ram
testicles and brain were great. The testicles, grilled over charcoal, tasted
like chislic. I’m not sure how to describe the brain beyond mushy, yet tasty.
Cheek, tongue, and cartilage, not my forte, but I’m happy for a new experience.
Nuleen, nu leeka! (Come, let’s eat!)